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Puppy Buyers Beware!

READ THIS BEFORE YOU BUY A PUPPY!

How to tell the difference between a good breeder and a bad one

 

Remember, every person that breeds their dog, has a responsibility in bringing animals into this world that have the best chance of living a long, healthy life.

 

It is against the law for breeders to knowingly breed animals with health problems. If you discover that a breeder has lied to you about the health of the parents or about the way they advertised the puppies for sale, you have every right to take the matter further.

 

There are people selling puppies who do not x-ray, keep pedigree records or are members of any dog club or organisation. These people are referred to as Backyard Breeders. Their interests revolve around profiting from you, the puppy buyer. Backyard breeders are not committed to producing good quality, purebred and healthy puppies.

 

Never buy a puppy whose parents have not been x-rayed, or from someone who is not a registered breeder and does not provide legitimate pedigrees with the puppy. Irresponsible breeding practices damage the breed and also result in poor quality and unhealthy pups!

 

If you are going to purchase a life long companion that is going to bring lots of love to your life, buy from a registered breeder, who takes pride in their dogs and their breeding program.

 

Are the puppies and dogs kept in a clean environment, not in the mud, messy papers or excrement? If they are well looked after and healthy puppies they should look and smell clean and healthy, with clean coats and bright eyes. People should not breed if they do not have an adequate set up for puppies.

 

Are both parents trained and have good temperaments? Are you able to meet them? Dogs should not be aggressive or shy. Temperament is partly genetic and partly environmental (how the dog is raised), so be sure you do not chose a puppy that may be prone to aggression or shyness.

 

What are the breeders reasons for breeding? Breeders should never breed just to make more white puppies. They should ONLY breed for the improvement of the breed, selecting mates based on health/genetics who are also conformationally (structurally) compatible and sound. They should be able to explain to you why the parents compliment each other in this regard. As soon as someone breeds a litter, they are classified as breeders (regardless if they are registered breeders or not!). People who say that they are not breeders, but just have puppies are obviously not doing the right thing and should not be breeding to start with. The breeder should also know the history of the breed, a bit about colour genetics and hereditary diseases in the breed.

 

Does the breeder use different stud dogs in their breeding program, or do they just have a male and female in the backyard and allowing them to breed whenever the female is in season? If responsible breeders care about the breed and its improvement, they will go to great lengths to travel to a suitable stud dog for the purpose of expanding the gene pool. Many also import dogs or frozen semen from overseas. There is no real consideration for the breed if a breeder continuously breeds the same dogs over and over again for the purpose of selling puppies to the public.

 

Will the breeder show you the pedigree papers of the puppies (not just the parents)? A good breeder will know what the pedigree of the pups will look like even before the mating! Many breeders like to do an extended pedigree of 5 generations or so. If a breeder tells you that papers will cost you extra, it is a blatant lie! All dogs bred should have a pedigree and should be x-rayed and accepted for breeding. Papers issued will say that the dog has been accepted for breeding and/or state Main Registration.

 

Are the breeders dogs a part of their family and socialised with kids, other dogs and the general public? If the dogs are well looked after, cherished family members that genuinely are part of the family, they will be well mannered and sociable. Never accept a bad temperament from a breeding quality dog!

 

Do the parents have any showing or working/training qualifications? Many breeders that are really into their breed of choice, will do many activities with their dogs, including training in different dog sports and showing and will be able to prove it with titles or championship points. It is a good thing if breeders prove the breed worth of their dogs by showing and advanced training, instead of being a pet that doesn’t leave the backyard.

 

Are the parents x-rayed with good hip and elbow scores? Be sure to see copies of the results and ask if you can keep a copy of these if you purchase the puppy. If in doubt, ask advice from a reputable club or qualified vet such as Monash Vet and get advice pertaining to the scores before you buy. In the scores, each hip is graded from 0-53 (with 0 being perfect and 53 being severely dysplasic). The Alliance recommends not to breed dogs over a total hip score of 20 at this stage of the breeding program in Australia (updated May 2009). The combined score of two mates bred together, should not go over 30.

 

 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON ElbowS

how they are scored and what it means

 

For breeding dogs, elbow scores should not be over 1:1. If a dog with a number on its elbow/s is bred, the elbow scores of the mate should be 0:0. This is the elbow policy of the White German Shepherd Dog Alliance of Victoria and is the recommended practice by scientists, veterinary associations and universities.

 

UAP and elbow dysplasia are inherited diseases common in large breed of dogs, especially German Shepherd Dogs.

 

What the Elbow Score means

Nil Arthrosis (Grade 0)

Minimal Arthosis (Grade 1) = 1-2mm

Moderate Arthosis (Grade 2) = 2-5 mm

Severe Arthrosis (Grade 3) = 5mm+

UAP = Ununited anconeal process (UAP) Click here for more information on UAP

 

Comments from renowned veterinarians regarding breeding dogs with elbow problems

 

Dr Roger Lavelle, University of Melbourne

It is all very well to monitor the elbow disease but unless some constraints are put on breeding, then there will be a lot of x-rays taken but no improvement in the prevention of lameness in the breeds affected. The research from the continents of Europe, Britain, Australia, and USA has shown that elbow disease is inherited. There is also information to show that those dogs with the more severe lesions are most likely to produce puppies with serious elbow disease. Consequently grade 3 elbow disease dogs should not be used for breeding and the grade 2 cases should be considered as serious risks.

Source: http://www.acay.com.au/~dissi/elbow.htm

 

Professor Bob Wyburn, official hip and elbow scorer

It is generally considered that dogs with grade 3 elbow dysplasia should not be used for breeding and that dogs with grade 2 should be considered a serious risk

Source: http://www.kazkiri.com/docs/HIP%20&%20ELBOW%20DYSPLASIA%20CONTROL%20SYSTEMS.doc

 

Charles Barnard, BVSc,M Med Vet Surgery

In an effort to reduce the incidence and maintain the goodwill of the breeders it would seem prudent to allow breeding where only one of the parents was affected with E.D., no worse than grade 1.

Source: http://www.vets.org.nz/NZVA/QAPs/Dysplasia/elbow/Dysplasia.PDF

 

The British Veterinary Association states in their Elbow Dysplasia leaflet:

ADVICE ON BREEDING
The overall grade is used internationally as the basis far breeding advice. Breeders are advised to select dogs with grades of ID or 1 in order to reduce the risk of ED in their offspring.
As ED is a prevalent disease, such advice will only be effective if it is continued over a number of generations. The most difficult part of accepting such advice for many breeders is that a number of dogs which have never been lame and exercise freely, also have high grades. This, however, is the subclinical population with the ability to pass the problem on in the breed. To gain long-term control of the disease these dogs ought not to be bred from.

Source: http://www.bva.co.uk/public/chs/chs_elbow.pdf

 

 

Does the breeder give health guarantees and guarantees against hip and elbow dysplasia? What happens if your puppy is diagnosed with a serious hereditary disease when it is still young? Are you eligible for a refund? Most ethical breeders will breed for the health of the breed and breed with the aim to lower the incidence of hip and elbow dysplasia and may offer full or partial refunds (depending on the severity of the case). The mode of inheritance of hip dysplasia is POLYGENETIC (meaning it is caused by many different genes of the parents). Scientists are not sure which genes or exactly how many. Factors that can worsen hip and elbow dysplasia are excess weight, a fast growth rate, a high calorie or supplemented diet. Breeders should investigate their blood lines before they breed and when choosing a mate, so the same thing with the mate’s pedigree and ancestors. That way, they can make an informed decision when breeding and avoid doubling up on diseases when combining blood lines.

 

How does the breeder track the health in their lines so they can learn about the health in their lines to produce healthier dogs? Some breeders require all pups they breed to have hip and xrays done so the owner and breeder has piece of mind that the dogs hips are sound and they will live a long life without any hip dysplasia. Breeders should care about the health of their puppies and this is something that a responsible breeder follows up on. Avoid purchasing a pup from a breeder who says there are no health problems in their lines at all. This is not true. Scientific research has proven that every dog is a carrier of some kind of hereditary problem. The only way to find out and improve health in dogs, is to survey, track and record these problems, so we can make wiser breeding decisions.

For more information, breeders and owners are encouraged to visit the White Shepherd Genetics Project

 

How does the breeder tell the difference between a pet quality puppy and a breeding quality puppy? Do they ask you before you purchase about whether you will be desexing your puppy or breeding it in the future? Due to the sad fact that many Australian whites are ending up in shelters and in the hands of backyard breeders, good breeders will care about your future plans for your puppy. A good breeder will not just sell you any puppy you want from a litter. They should reserve the best ones for breeding homes or sell it on breeders terms, so they may improve the next generation of dogs. They should also require pet quality pups be desexed. It’s pretty pointless if a pet quality puppy is bred when it is not the best quality from the litter. If they don’t breed the best dogs to improve the next generation, you have to ask yourself if simply selling puppies for the public is their main motive for breeding! Breeders who don’t care where their puppies end up or whether they are bred or not, should not breed! Pups should be assessed at 6-8 weeks to check their conformation (structure), temperament and type. A poorly constructed puppy should be sold as a pet, with the better quality pups being retained in the breeding program. If all pups are sold as pets, this does nothing for the future of the breed! Breeders should always breed for the bright future of their chosen breed!

 

Do the parents have certified purebred pedigree papers? Ask to see copies of pedigrees. Never trust the word of someone! Some breeders who have no idea, mistake papers for a vaccination card! Papers should list all three generations of dogs, the breeder and owner and have registration numbers for each dog. Dogs that are approved for breeding should have papers issued stating that the dog has fulfilled breeding requirements.

 

Do the pups come with information pertaining to worming and vaccination schedules, so you know when the next set are due? What about a vaccination card and microchip transfer? You need to know when to vaccinate your puppy (12 and 16 weeks, then a yearly booster), and you will need to transfer the ownership of the puppy into your name. There’s nothing worse than having your dog get out and it’s microchip not in your name, so the breeder is still the legal owner! Your breeder should be able to give you recommendations and advice on food and how much to feed, exercise for the pup, worming, heartworm etc. Your vet and obedience club should be able to guide you through the rest of the process and raising of your puppy, though your breeder should be able to give you a wealth of advice and knowledge on these subjects.

 

Is the breeder willing to keep in contact with you regarding any after-sale queries? A caring and responsible breeder will not turn you away as soon as they have your money and you take the pup. If you have any training, behaviour or general breed enquires, they should be more than willing to help you. A good breeder will keep in contact with you throughout the pups life and ask you how he/she is doing and ask to see photos as they grow. A good breeder likes to stay in contact with their puppy buyers to check that everything is OK.

 

Do you get a good overall feel for the breeder when taking to them? Never purchase a puppy because you feel sorry for it, want to save it or if you feel pressured in any way by the breeder. A good breeder will be helpful with any questions you have about their dogs or the breed and will be enthusiastic in doing so. You should never feel pressured or harassed. Is the breeder friendly and easy to talk to and deal with? Are they organised with their paperwork and microchip transfers and vaccination cards? Do they tell you how long it will take until you receive the papers for your pup in your own name? Do they use puppy sale contracts because they care where their dogs end up and don’t want to see them in a pound or shelter? Do they clearly outline what you should do with your dog if you can no longer keep it? A breeder who genuinely cares will cover all of this and also ask you lots of questions to figure out if you will be a responsible pet owner. Getting a pet is a large responsibility, so a good breeder will want to know that you understand the importance of such a commitment.

 

This page is for information and educational purposes only and to educate the public. This information is copyright and is not to be forwarded, copied, reproduced or published without express permission from the WGSDAV.